Captain Kangaroo Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago 2 hours ago, TBG 150 said: Many of those products I never even heard of. Mainly because it's all European stuff fresh out of China. I use pads, calipers, drums and rotors from Detroit Axle. Perfect fit and finish and made in Detroit. Whether that is good or not, I don't know, but I've been using their products for about 30 years with 0 issues. Like the Captain said, never go cheap or do it half-assed. Pads, rotors, seals, clean and re-pack the bearings and depending on mileage, replace the flex lines and calipers too. Otherwise, at least flush out the old brake fluid. It's hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. That moisture works its way through the lines and settles at the lowest point, your calipers. Now you have water rusting the caliper pistons, caliper bores and causing tearing to the square ring sealing the calipers where all of your pedal pressure ends up. I have used Detroit axle products many times over the years since they came onto the market and I turned wrenches. Every company that makes and sells brake system parts has different price and quality levels. This includes the QUOTE UNQUOTE OEM factory replacements. If a dealership is running a brake job special, I Guarantee You they are installing the lower quality of pad. I know this for a fact having worked in a few Stealerships over 40 years time frame. Brake fluid should absolutely be flushed each time a brake job is done. Or every 3 years if you drive a ton more highway/Interstate miles and get more miles between brake jobs. As for pads and shoes go, I stick with the top 3 brands Bendix, Wagner and Raybestos. And I only use ceramic pads to eliminate dust and squeals. Stay away from drilled and slotted rotors. They eat brake pads. If they didn't come on it factory, then they're not needed Quote
Captain Kangaroo Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago 2 hours ago, TBG 150 said: Whatever filter the factory uses is the one to replace it with. Be it Ford, GM, Mopar, Toyota, Honda etc... If you can't get an OEM filter, Wix, Hastings or NAPA Gold, are the only ones I would even think about. I would avoid Wix as well. They're known to also be a super packed filter that causes slow oil flow and plug up quickly. My rule of thumb. DO NOT Go by the manufactures recommended oil change schedules or those cool little dash board messages and counters. Most cars these days use either synthetic or blended synthetic oils from the factory. If your car calls for a blended oil, use a FULL synthetic. They are actually cheaper then the blended factory stuff. Make sure you are using a true FULL Synthetic!!! Not all of them are. @SPYING 1 did share a video link on this subject some time back. When using a Full synthetic live by the 6-6 rule. 6 months or no more than 6000 miles. Many manufacturers have the timers set up for 7500 to 15000 miles. They did this to get/keep crying customers off their asses about having to have the oil changed. BMW went to oil producers and asked for an oil to be made to last for 15000 miles. Most said Yeah Right, NOT Happening!! Castrol said, WE CAN DO THAT!! No they couldn't and didn't. It cost both companies millions of dollars in law suits. The suits came about due to oil that was SUPPOSED to LAST and NOT break down for 15000 miles was actually breaking down around 7500 miles and lubricated no better then cooking oil at the 15000 mile mark. And I'm not even going to get started on the use of Ethanol................ 1 Quote
SPYING 1 Posted 58 minutes ago Author Posted 58 minutes ago 10 minutes ago, Captain Kangaroo said: I would avoid Wix as well. They're known to also be a super packed filter that causes slow oil flow and plug up quickly. My rule of thumb. DO NOT Go by the manufactures recommended oil change schedules or those cool little dash board messages and counters. Most cars these days use either synthetic or blended synthetic oils from the factory. If your car calls for a blended oil, use a FULL synthetic. They are actually cheaper then the blended factory stuff. Make sure you are using a true FULL Synthetic!!! Not all of them are. @SPYING 1 did share a video link on this subject some time back. When using a Full synthetic live by the 6-6 rule. 6 months or no more than 6000 miles. Many manufacturers have the timers set up for 7500 to 15000 miles. They did this to get/keep crying customers off their asses about having to have the oil changed. BMW went to oil producers and asked for an oil to be made to last for 15000 miles. Most said Yeah Right, NOT Happening!! Castrol said, WE CAN DO THAT!! No they couldn't and didn't. It cost both companies millions of dollars in law suits. The suits came about due to oil that was SUPPOSED to LAST and NOT break down for 15000 miles was actually breaking down around 7500 miles and lubricated no better then cooking oil at the 15000 mile mark. And I'm not even going to get started on the use of Ethanol................ On my 2013 Ford F250 6.7 I used STP EXTENDED LIFE 10,000 miles oil filter, and changed the oil at 3,000 miles using regular 15-40 oil or 5,000 miles using synthetic 15-40 and I sold my truck with 232,000 miles, still running like new. 1 Quote
Captain Kangaroo Posted 41 minutes ago Posted 41 minutes ago 8 minutes ago, SPYING 1 said: On my 2013 Ford F250 6.7 I used STP EXTENDED LIFE 10,000 miles oil filter, and changed the oil at 3,000 miles using regular 15-40 oil or 5,000 miles using synthetic 15-40 and I sold my truck with 232,000 miles, still running like new. I have seen those as well as the extended life Mobil 1 oil filters at the store. They were always double and some times triple the cost of the Motorcraft and AC Delco filters I use on my Fords and GMs. The key is to keep it changed!!! I recall when Mobil 1 first came on the market. My dad owned and operated a Mobil full service station. It was rated as 12 months or 12000 miles between changes. But there was 1 key factor/rule that no one wanted to follow. You MUST change the filter EVERY 3 Months!!! I still have a number of the cool free give aways you got when you changed over to using Mobil 1. I wonder what they're worth 🤔 1 Quote
SPYING 1 Posted 27 minutes ago Author Posted 27 minutes ago 44 minutes ago, Captain Kangaroo said: I would avoid Wix as well. They're known to also be a super packed filter that causes slow oil flow and plug up quickly. My rule of thumb. DO NOT Go by the manufactures recommended oil change schedules or those cool little dash board messages and counters. Most cars these days use either synthetic or blended synthetic oils from the factory. If your car calls for a blended oil, use a FULL synthetic. They are actually cheaper then the blended factory stuff. Make sure you are using a true FULL Synthetic!!! Not all of them are. @SPYING 1 did share a video link on this subject some time back. When using a Full synthetic live by the 6-6 rule. 6 months or no more than 6000 miles. Many manufacturers have the timers set up for 7500 to 15000 miles. They did this to get/keep crying customers off their asses about having to have the oil changed. BMW went to oil producers and asked for an oil to be made to last for 15000 miles. Most said Yeah Right, NOT Happening!! Castrol said, WE CAN DO THAT!! No they couldn't and didn't. It cost both companies millions of dollars in law suits. The suits came about due to oil that was SUPPOSED to LAST and NOT break down for 15000 miles was actually breaking down around 7500 miles and lubricated no better then cooking oil at the 15000 mile mark. And I'm not even going to get started on the use of Ethanol................ On my new 2025 Ford F250 6.7 I'm going to use K&N oil 🛢 filters Quote
Captain Kangaroo Posted 25 minutes ago Posted 25 minutes ago Just now, SPYING 1 said: On my new 2025 Ford F250 6.7 I'm going to use K&N oil 🛢 filters You should never have issues with how you stay on top of the oil & filter changes Quote
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