SPYING 1 Posted yesterday at 11:26 AM Author Posted yesterday at 11:26 AM ProCharger F-1A94 Boosts A Built 7.3 Godzilla To Nearly 1,600 HP WWW.FORDMUSCLE.COM Ford’s Godzilla 7.3-liter V8 is a potent performance engine-swap option. Brian Wolfe fortified one... Quote
SPYING 1 Posted yesterday at 11:45 AM Author Posted yesterday at 11:45 AM This is a must watch video 📹 Quote
SPYING 1 Posted 7 hours ago Author Posted 7 hours ago 4 Common Problems With Inline-6 Engines - SlashGear WWW.SLASHGEAR.COM Inline-sixes tend to have problems tied to their size and length, higher camshaft flex... Quote
Captain Kangaroo Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 20 minutes ago, SPYING 1 said: There is SOOOOOOOO much more then brake pads to take in to consideration then what Mr Salesman AI is going into. The key factor is doing the job correctly and replacing, cleaning and greasing all necessary components while replacing the pads. #1 rule when it comes to brakes, steering and suspension--DON'T CUT CORNERS and buy cheap ass parts!!! 1 Quote
TBG 150 Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 1 hour ago, Captain Kangaroo said: There is SOOOOOOOO much more then brake pads to take in to consideration then what Mr Salesman AI is going into. The key factor is doing the job correctly and replacing, cleaning and greasing all necessary components while replacing the pads. #1 rule when it comes to brakes, steering and suspension--DON'T CUT CORNERS and buy cheap ass parts!!! Many of those products I never even heard of. Mainly because it's all European stuff fresh out of China. I use pads, calipers, drums and rotors from Detroit Axle. Perfect fit and finish and made in Detroit. Whether that is good or not, I don't know, but I've been using their products for about 30 years with 0 issues. Like the Captain said, never go cheap or do it half-assed. Pads, rotors, seals, clean and re-pack the bearings and depending on mileage, replace the flex lines and calipers too. Otherwise, at least flush out the old brake fluid. It's hydroscopic and absorbs moisture. That moisture works its way through the lines and settles at the lowest point, your calipers. Now you have water rusting the caliper pistons, caliper bores and causing tearing to the square ring sealing the calipers where all of your pedal pressure ends up. Quote
TBG 150 Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 1 hour ago, SPYING 1 said: Whatever filter the factory uses is the one to replace it with. Be it Ford, GM, Mopar, Toyota, Honda etc... If you can't get an OEM filter, Wix, Hastings or NAPA Gold, are the only ones I would even think about. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.